Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Nepal : Part 13 - EBC Trek (Day 7) - From Gorak Shep (5180m) to Everest Base Camp (5386m)

We will stay in Gorak Shep for the night. The porters put our stuff in the room. We sat for a bit in the kitchen fueling ourselves. The trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC) was going to take us 2 hours, and we are estimated to reach by noon or the latest 1pm. We will stay for 20 minutes at EBC, and trek back to Gorak Shep. We will have a late lunch. Sounds like a good plan to me. 

After the 20 minute break in Gorak Shep, we continued our trek to Everest Base Camp. I was very excited that I have succeeded this far. The walk started on a flat path, with rocks and stones decorating the route. The sun was burning my skin. It was not hot, but I can feel the heat. There were no clouds. The weather was perfect for photo shoots. We stopped every 20 minutes to drink our water. But occasionally, we forget because we were walking on a flat path, and did not feel too thirsty as not much energy was used. 





At 9.55am, we reached the fork that shows us the direction to EBC. 15 minutes. Another 1 hour 45 minutes to go. We scrambled down a rocky path. It was more like jumping on rocks. The rocks were huge enough, of course. Sometimes, I stumbled and slipped. This is a sign of tiredness. It's true. My legs were tired. Crap.. going back is not going to be easy because we will be ascending the rocks.

It was a short descend. Then, we have to walk on a long, somewhat flat route, scattered with loose stones and rocks. That was the longest, never ending route to reach to the ultimate destination. For one main reason - I started to feel unwell. As I walked, I started to feel nauseous. I did not have any headache. I could feel a gradual pain at my left side. I knew what I had - gastric. Never did it comes across my mind for my preparation to EBC that I will encounter gastric. It was 11.40am, 20 minutes before reaching the Base Camp. The guide asked if I wanted to continue. I said yes. I just needed food. So, I took out a small box of raisins and ate half of the contents, popped a gastric pill, applied Tiger Balm (my sister is a fan of Tiger Balm, and she brings it everywhere she goes. So, now I am a fan too. Tiger Balm is the balm of my life now) on my forehead, and I was back on the route. Thankfully, the nauseous went away.





And here, we were close to the Base Camp. All we had to do now was cross that very narrow ridge (the short distance between the 2 men on the other side and the solo man on this side), which was actually ice. The ice was covered with soil. I held the porter's hand and he changed the position to holding my hand. I did not understand why and after I crossed it, I realised that if anything happens, he would be holding my hand. He pulled us along the ridge. The path had space for one foot only. I slipped a bit but he has gripped my hand strongly. A slip would mean falling into the cold freezing water of Khumbu Glacier. My heart was beating so hard as I crossed the ridge. 

The fact that there is water in EBC is not a good sign. Global warming is making its presence permanent on this Earth. The guide did mention on the bigger pools of water. Before you know it, EBC won't be on a block of ice anymore. They may have to relocate EBC.




At 12pm, we stepped foot on Everest Base Camp. I felt relieved with a small shout of triumph in my heart that I have reached here safely. The skies were clear and we were surrounded by glorious high mountains. From afar, we could see an orange camp that belongs to a Korean expedition which is going to climb Mount Lhotse. Ironically, we cannot see Mount Everest from Everest Base Camp. 

We were given 20 minutes to be here. First thing I did - stopped to look at the small built-up of rocks that marked my achievement. Actually, the whole area was EBC. The piled-up rocks with prayer flags was the best decorated spot to indicate EBC. The next thing I did - took lots of photos. Then, food. Finally, the highlight of my presence in EBC - I painted my fingernail. Day 8 in Nepal. Day 7 of the trek. And here, I sang 'I am on top of the world looking down on creation..' - sang the chorus only because I was out of breath.







We walked back to Gorak Shep using a different route, not on the narrow ridge. I collected ice and stones on my way back. Of course, the ice melted by the time I reached Gorak Shep. If you don't believe we are walking on ice, here is a photo that shows the ice underneath the rocks, soil, and stones.




At 2.30pm, we sighted our lodge. I thought the water was from Khumbu Glacier, but it is not. I am not sure where the source is from. We reached back at 2.45pm, and had a late lunch. It was just a vegetable omelette because I do not know what I can stomach. I know, I have aggravated my gastric. I was burping so much trying to dispel as much wind as I can. My sister had her usual Rara Noodles.






Finally, we are able to settle into our room. The highest accommodation has the warmest room. We had sun ray in our room! For the first time, there is heat in our room.  


After resting for a bit, I went out from the lodge to write my family members' names on the wet earth. I was out of breath scratching the names using my trekking stick. So, this is proof that my family has reached Gorak Shep too!


For dinner, my sister had Sherpa Stew. I had Dhal Bhat, which was a bad choice. I could not finish my meal. I felt awful for wasting food. I was burping a lot, like burping 7 times in 1 minute. We went back to our rooms at 7pm, and I was tossing around. The guide said high altitude affects sleep too. I slept for a bit and woke up at midnight. I was awake till 2am, and so I touched up on my nail polish. Yeah, I admit it does sound kind of vain, but it was the only thing that I could do. I slept back again till 4am.



My initial itinerary was to see the sunset at Mount Everest from Mount Kala Patthar. Kala Patthar was just opposite our lodge. It would have been an easy walk, or looked like a simple trek, but my legs were tired, and I was not too keen to worsen my gastric and tiredness. So, I decided that I will just settle to see the sunrise tomorrow. Looking at my constant burping and headache from the gastric effect, my guide told us that we will go to Kala Patthar only if we are up for it. I agreed and I told myself that I will be alright tomorrow, and I will see the sunrise! 

And here is a YouTube video (Day 7 : From Lobuche to Everest Base Camp) that my sister did. You can click on the link to go to the YouTube video just in case the video loads too slow in this post.

2 comments:

William Robertson said...

I miss this place... I've been here few years ago with my team and very fulfilling achievement to reach the peak. I know guys you also have great experience as we did. By the way the photos are Great!

That 'Heart' Traveller said...

Thanks! It was definitely a golden experience!