Croatia: Part 17 - Day 15: Flight from Zagreb to Stockholm

Here is a summary of what is spent on Day 15

15/8 Day 15: Flight from Zagreb (18:05 hours) to Warsaw (19:20 hours). Continued with another flight from Warsaw (20:50 hours) to Stockholm (22:25 hours)

 
Cost
(1) 1 tram and 1 bus tickets (30 minutes duration) EUR0,53 each - EUR1,06

(2) Flight ticket from Zagreb to Stockholm with Polish Airlines SEK1997. Shared a luggage SEK402/3 - SEK2131

Food
(1) Breakfast at Desiree Cafe EUR5,80 - Breakfast set: Toast with ham and cheese, cappucino and fresh orange juice
(2) Lunch at Kvatric EUR19 - Istrian pasta Pljukanci with beef steak, sundried tomatoes EUR15, shared bread EUR1, Hidra lemon 500ml EUR3,50
(3) Coffee at Srebjnak 1947 Cafe - Kremsnite EUR1,70 (the cheapest I have seen and I did not have one), cappucino EUR2,30
(4) Drink at airport - Radler 500ml EUR5,90 (expensive since it is in the airport)

The Story
15082025: Today, we check out from the apartment. We had the same breakfast from the same place as yesterday. 

We checked out and took tram 12 from Stop: Badaliceva to Stop: Kvaternikov Torg where we will take the bus to the airport. We bought our tickets from the app - by scanning the QR-code in the tram. You can see a sticker with a QR-code by the door. We scanned the code 3 times as we bought 3 tickets.

Croatia: Part 16 - Day 14: Nikola Tesla Technical Museum

Here is a summary of what is spent on Day 14

14/8 Day 14: Visited Nikola Tesla Technical Museum. Had local food - strukli. Found the best kremsnite, according to us. 

Cost
(1) Entrance ticket to Nikola Tesla Technical Museum EUR6

(2) 2 tram tickets EUR0,53 (30 minutes duration) each - EUR1,06

Food
(1) Breakfast at Desiree Cafe EUR5,80 - Breakfast set: Toast with ham and cheese, cappucino and fresh orange juice

(2) Lunch at La Struk EUR17,17 - Strukli with truffel pasta EUR9,50, shared strukli with walnuts and honey EUR9,50, summer seasona drink with mint and lemon 500ml EUR4,50

(3) Ice-cram at Hotel Dubrovnik - EUR2,50 per scoop

(4) Drink pause - Radler 500ml EUR3,30

(5) Coffee pause at Zagreb Cafe EUR5,40 - Kremsnite EUR3,20, cappucino EUR2,20

(6) Dinner at Torikaya Ramen Bar EUR20 - Tan-tanmen (ramen) EUR16, kombucha lemon ginger EUR4

The Story

14082025: My legs were so tired today after yesterday's long walk to the beach. Eyes were tired too which could be from sleeping directly under the airconditioning. We searched on Google Map for a breakfast place and found Breadclub which unfortunately don't offer breakfast. As per its name, it sells bread only. The bread looks very tasty! We walked to a few cafes and found out they sell coffee only. The 'drink-coffee' culture is strong in Croatia. There don't seem to be a demand for food together with coffee. Very different from in Sweden where coffee is usually accompanied by something sweet - the fika culture. 

Finally, we found a cafe that serves breakfast! So happy that we don't need to walk further under the heat. Thank you for existing, Desiree Cafe! 

Croatia: Part 15 - Day 13: Dovac market, walking tour and Plaza Jarun

Here is a summary of what is spent on Day 13

13/8 Day 13: Breakfast at Dovac market. Walking tour from 10-1130am. Went to Plaza Jarun (beach) to take a dip in warm water and we showered off with cold water. 

Cost
(1) Walking tour tips - Shared EUR24

(2) 2 tram tickets EUR0,53 (30 minutes duration) each - EUR1,06

Food
(1) Breakfast at Broom 44 EUR16 - Shaksuka EUR13, cappucino EUR3

(2) Walnuts from the market EUR10 per kilogram - Shared 300g EUR3

(3) Drink pause at Tolkien House Bar - Sour beer 300ml EUR3,50

(4) Lunch at Stari Fijaker EUR20 - Chicken with mushroom sauce (popecci a la Fijaker) EUR16, radler 500ml EUR4

(5) Coffee pause at Vincek cafe - Kremsnite EUR2,70, iced coffee latte EUR2,30

(6) Drink pause at Macao Bar, Plaza Jarun - Hidra 500ml EUR3,50

(7) Dinner at Basta Gourmet EUR16,50 - Chicken salad EUR13, peach tea 250ml EUR3,50

The Story

13082025: Our morning activities started with breakfast at Dovac market. It was a lovely morning walk as it was not scorching hot yet. We passed by a giant tie in town and eventually, I found out that the idea of neckties originated from Croatia. 

Summary of the history. Once upon a time, Croatian soldiers wore scarves knotted in a special way and joined the French army. French became inspired and made a fashion out of it. The word 'cravat' comes from the Croatian word 'Hrvat'.  

Behind the giant tie is the town's funicular which is under renovation so we could not ride on it. Sad. 

Yay, we reached Dovac market. Sellers have set up their stalls. It was empty yesterday evening when we walked through it.

We found a random cafe located in one of the buildings surrounding the market. It was nice to see the market's activities. It got hot quite quickly.

Croatia: Part 14 - Day 12: Drive from Plitvice to Zagreb

Here is a summary of what is spent on Day 12

12/8 Day 12: Drive from Plitvice to Zagreb. Started 930am. Drove to Korana river to take a last dip. Arrived at 1230pm. Returned the car. In Zagreb, walked to Art Pavilion, Zrinjevac Public Park and Mirogoj cemetery.

Cost
(1) Petrol in Zagreb EUR1,43 per liter - 18.46 liter for EUR26,40

Accommodation

(1) Apartment in Zagreb, 3 nights (from Airbnb) - Shared room EUR187,06 for 3 persons, EUR62,35 per person. Cheapest accommodation for our Croatian trip. EUR20,78 per person per night. Most expensive was in Dubrovnik EUR41,18, followed by Plitvice EUR40 and Makarska EUR39.

Food
(1) Buffet breakfast in the accommodation - EUR10
(2) Lunch at Pivnica Budweiser, Zagreb EUR21,20 - Pasta with beef and vegetables in truffle sauce EUR17,50, Radler 500ml EUR3,70
(3) Coffee break at Slatka Prica - Cappucino EUR2,20, Kremsnite cake EUR3
(4) Water pause at Bar 45 - Hidra 500ml EUR3,50
(5) Dinner at Restaurant Asia EUR16,77 - Shared meal - duck EUR18,90, pork with vegetables and sweet sauce EUR9,90, seasonal vegetables EUR7, rice 2 portions EUR4, Hidra 500ml EUR3,50

The Story

12082025: Today, we check out from Plitvice. We took the buffet breakfast provided by the accommodation so it is a separate payment for it. We had the buffet breakfast on the first day and prepared our own for the next 3 days. Since we are leaving today, we decided to make it easy for us. But expensive. 

Before leaving Plitvice, we drove to Rastoke town and took a dip in Korana river one last time.

We did not stop anywhere during our drive to Zagreb. It was about two and a half hours so we were not tired. We drove directly to the car rental company. I managed to find an accommodation near the car rental company so we walked to a restaurant nearby for lunch while waiting for check-in time at 2pm. It was an easy process to return the car. The staff checked the car and we got our deposit returned to the debit card within the same day.

For lunch, it is pasta for me. 

I moved around while waiting for the time to pass. I enjoy sitting on swings.

Croatia: Part 13 - Day 11: Slunjcica Well and dip in Korana river

Here is a summary of what is spent on Day 11.

11/8 Day 11: Drove to Slunjcica Well. Continued to Rastoke town to take a dip in Korana river there.

Food
(1) Cafe bar Vodena, Rastoke town - cappucino EUR3

(2) Lunch at Rastokim Krovom, Slunj EUR19 - Pasta with bacon and mushroom sauce EUR15, Twist 500ml EUR4

(3) Dinner at Plum Bistro EUR30,80 - Schweppes 330ml EUR3,80, deer ragu (meat-based sauce) with polenta EUR27

The Story

11082025: Today is another day of ad-hoc activities. I did not do anything special. It is pretty much a day that I will not remember unless I read my blog. 

We had our usual breakfast, the one that we had yesterday and the day before. We drove to Slunjcica river and checked out Slunjcica Well. It is so blue and the deepest is measured at 26 meters. According to the signboard, the depth is changeable as the bottom is covered not only with stones fallen from the surrounding cliffs but also with several meters deep layer of sand and mud which is consistently shifted around by the moving waterflows.

My travel companions looked for a spot to take a dip in the river but there was no proper way to get down to the water. No sand. No shallow ground. No steps. One is not allowed to take a dip in the well as the current is very strong underneath the waters.

The words in the photo are small. I don't expect you to read them. Check out the image instead. The illustration in the middle shows the depth of the well and above it is how Slunjcica Well flows into Slunj river into Korana river.

We sat by the well and enjoyed the cooling spot. 

Croatia: Part 12 - Day 10: Barac caves

Here is a summary of what is spent on Day 10.

10/8 Day 10: Drove to Dreznik old town to see fortress and to find out that Korana river has dried out there. Visited Barac caves. 

 
Cost
(1) Entrance fees Barac caves EUR14,40 (10% discount as we had Plitvice tickets)

Food
(1) Coffee stop at a random sport bar after the cave visit - EUR1,67 (cheapest I have ever had and I cannot find the name of the sports bar now.. sad. It serves only drinks and no food)

(2) Lunch at Degenija restaurant EUR20,50 - Pasta with chicken and mushroom sauce EUR16,50, Hidra 500ml EUR4

(3) Grocery from Tommy market - Hidra 500ml EUR1,09 (always cheaper in a grocery store. I have been paying 3 or 4x the price in restaurants)

(4) Dinner at Antonia Bistro EUR16 - Greek salad EUR12, radler 500ml EUR4

The Story

10082025: Today, we have no plans. Actually, I delegated the actvities to do in Plitvice to my travel companions as it is nature-filled area. So, I thought that we will be able to hike and they will find some hiking routes around the national park, similar to what we did in Tatra mountains in Zakopane. But I was very wrong to make that assumption and not research about the national park before delegating my planning to my travel companions. Although I did blame them (mentally) for not checking the information about the park and not even finding out the price of the ticket until I purchased it and gave me a shock, I take responsibility for delegating it to them. Lesson learnt is that I will delegate only once I have done my research. Hence, the 'no-plans' day today. 

Breakfast is the same as yesterday. Our own breakfast compilation from the grocery store. 

Impromptu activity - we found a place on the map that looks like a tourist attraction. Dreznik old town and it looks like there is a place to take a dip in Korana river here. 

Drežnik Old Town is a defensive fortress from the 12th century that protected this part of Europe from the invasion of the Turks for 400 years. Due to its strategically important position, Drežnik often changed masters over the centuries, which left a mark on its walls.  At the end of 2011, the large tower was restored, and since then the project of repairing the walls and roof of the large inner tower, as well as the remains of the defensive walls, has been underway. Source from Plitvice Valleys.

So, there is no actual town. We walked up the short flight of stairs to see what lays behind the tower. I am unsure if the project to repair has completed or was it suspended. It does not look complete from the top of the stairs.

There is a short path by the fortress that leads to Korana river. A sign says that. When we reached the bottom, the river was dried up. We were shocked to see it. I did not realise that a river can dry up. I thought Korana river's source was from Plitvice Lakes. 

We gave up on finding a spot to dip in Dreznik and found a cave nearby. That is different for a change. Also, it is 9 degrees inside so it is very welcoming and an obvious choice when it is 37 degrees outside. We got a 10% discount on our entrance fees as we had tickets from Plitvice. The staff was shocked that we had a 2-day ticket as a 1-day is enough. I thought I would have received a 20% discount as we bought a 2-day ticket. 

The toilet is very clean. But the internet network is very bad here. We even got a message welcoming us to Bosnia. Big mistake when one of us had our roaming switched on and got billed a significant amount for 3 minutes roaming, as Bosnia is not part of EU. 

There are many bats sign and also on our entrance ticket but I did not see bats in the caves.

Croatia: Part 11 - Day 9: Plitvice Lakes National Park, route K

Here is a summary of what is spent on Day 9.

9/8 Day 9: Walked route K on Plitvice Lakes National Park. Arrived at entrance 2. Took bus from Station 2 to Station 1. Walked to P2. Took boat from P2 to P1 to use toilet. Took boat back to P2. Continued on route K to see Vidikovac viewpoint. Walked back to Station 3. Took bus from Station 3 to Station 2. Spent 7.5 hours. 

Cost
(1) Parking fee Plitvice Lakes National Park EUR2 per hour - 8 hours for EUR16

Food

(1) Lunch Bistro Vucnina EUR12,17 - Shared 2 pizzas, 4-cheese pizza EUR14, salami pizza EUR12. Schweppes 250ml EUR3,50

(2) Dinner Vila Velebita EUR23,33 - shared bread EUR3, shared grilled vegetables EUR4, grilled sausages with fried potatoes EUR17, Twist lemon 500ml EUR4.

The Story

09082025: Today, we continue our walk in Plitvice Lakes National Park on route K to see the Lower Lakes and the great waterfall. Yesterday, we did route E and a bit of route B. We reflected on how well-maintained and marked the trail is, how great that there is a boat and bus to shorten the walk and how easy the walk is. We thought that there was lack of excitement in the walk. Yes, we are in the nature but it was nicely curated. Every angle and corner became similar and the novelty of seeing the blue lakes wore off. Also, we know that they want to attract tourists and make it accessible for everyone so the simple and managed trails were good. It also explains the high ticket price - it is expected for the trail to be maintained and clean as well as the availability of bus and boat. 

Back to today's story. Breakfast was compiled by us. We got similar food (yoghurt, bread, cream cheese, sliced ham, juice) as served in the accommodation's hotel, except egg and croissant. Cheaper for us by preparing our own. EUR4,63 vs EUR10. I brought coffee sachets during the trip so we could have our coffee. 

We left the accommodation at 8am, found a parking spot and did a leisure walk to entrance 2, as we knew how long it will take us. No hurry this time as this is our second day. So, we can enter the national park at any time and at any entrance, according to a staff. It was not stated in the website though, on the rules for 2-day ticket. We did not want to take any chances and arrived before 9am at entrance 2. Our ticket is the 8am ticket and entrance 2. One has a one-hour period to arrive. Today, we will do route K to see the Lower Lakes and the great waterfall.  

To get to route K starting point, we took a bus in front of entrance 2. We are at Station 2 and headed for Station 1. It does not state route K on the signboard but we know route K goes from Station 1 too as we saw in the map. There was no timetable on when the bus is supposed to arrive. We waited for about 35 minutes. 

Station 1 is close to entrance 1 where one can park there too. It would have been easier to choose entrance 1 as starting point and go on route K. 

Croatia: Part 10 - Day 8 Second half: Dip in Korana river

Here is a summary of what is spent on Day 8 second half.

8/8 Day 8 second half: Drove to Rastoke town. Took a dip in Korana River. 

Cost
(1) Parking fee at Slunj Central Bus station, located at Prilaj Centrali EUR0,40 per hour - 5 hours for EUR2

(2) Petrol Plitvice EUR1,54 per liter - 32,02 liter for EUR49,31

Food

(1) Drink in Bistro Kum, Rastoke - Jana iced tea 330ml EUR3,50

(2) Dinner a Rastokim Krovom, Slunj EUR26,67 - Shared cheese plate EUR14, Twist 500ml EUR4, fish trout with swiss chard and potatoes EUR18

(3) Grocery from Tommy store - Food for 3-days breakfast EUR13,89. Cost per person per day EUR4,63. We bought yoghurt, a loaf of bread, orange juice, ham slices, cream cheese. 

The Story

08082025 Second half: After the 5-hour walk in Plitvice Lakes National Park, our adventure continues to Korana river to take a dip and cool ourselves down. The drive took us 30 minutes. We parked in the parking lot in Slunj Central bus station. The hourly parking fees are much cheaper than in Plitvice Lakes National Park - EUR0,40 vs EUR2. 

Then, it was a 10 minute walk to Rastoke town where Slunjcica river flows into Korana river. We walked across a wide bridge where Slunjcica river flows under. The statue of St John of Nepomuk is on the bridge. This is the description of the statue placed on the bridge:

The Statue of St. John of Nepomuk was placed on the bridge in 1886, during one of the bridge reconstructions. Until then, the statue was located south of the bridge, at the part called Struga. What is specific about the statue is that it was made of cast iron. St. John of Nepomuk was a Czech priest and martyr who was thrown into the Vltava River by the orders of King Vaclav IV. Regarding that, he has become the patron saint of bridges and travellers and that is why his statues can often be seen on the bridges. The statue was thrown into the Slunjcica river in 1945 by the Partisans. The religious people took it out of the river and placed it on the wall by the church. The Serbian aggressor knocked it down from that place in 1991. After the Croatian War of Independence, the statue was restored and placed back on the bridge.

Here is a map of Rastoke town, Slunjcica river and Korana river. You can see that Slunjcica river flows into Korana river but I am unclear at which point. Here is a bit of geography and history of Slunjcica and Korana river. I am confused myself so I decided to research on these two rivers.

The Korana river is a synonym of a river with the most beautiful spring in the world. Its source is the end of the Plitvice Lakes, the oldest and most famous National park in Croatia and the water plunging down the Great waterfall (Veliki slap) merging in the gorge called Sastavci. The river officially starts from that gorge with bustling water and its total length until it ends in the Kupa river in Karlovac is 134.2 kilometres. Source from Slunj Rastoke.

The Slunjčica (locally also called Slušnica) is a river, which flows through the Kordun region in central Croatia. It partly flows underground through porous karst (limestone soil) and surfaces in the vicinity of the city of Slunj. At Rastoke the Slunjčica leads into the river Korana. The city of Slunj bears its name from this river. Due to its underground course the Slunjčica river has a quite cold temperature even during summer and the nearby situated towns use it as drinking water. Source from Wikipedia.

The yellow spot is where we took our dip.

Croatia: Part 9 - Day 8 First half: Plitvice Lakes National Park, route E & B

Here is a summary of what is spent on Day 8 first half.

8/8 Day 8 first half: Walked routes E and B on Plitvice Lakes National Park. Chose entrance 2 and saw Upper Lakes.

Arrived at entrance 2. Walked to P1 - boat from P1 to P2. Walked from P2 to Station 3 - bus from Station 3 to Station 1. Walked from Station 1 to P1. Spent 5 hours.

Cost
(1) 2-days ticket to Plitvice Lakes National Park EUR60

(2) Parking fee Plitvice Lakes National Park EUR2 per hour - 5 hours for EUR10

Food

(1) Breakfast at Lady of the Lake B&B - Buffet EUR10

The Story

08082025: Today, we take a walk in Plitvice Lakes National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage. I bought the tickets the day before. 

A month back, when I checked the time slots, I planned for 9am and I saw about 160 slots available so I thought that I could buy the ticket later. However, a day before our planned walk, there were no slots available. It was either 8am or during noon, which will be too hot for us. So, we took 8am. I read that one has 1 hour from time of ticket to enter the park. So, the latest time we can enter is 9am. A minute later and one has to buy a new time slot. For the second day, one can enter the park at any time. 

Here, I need to describe a bit more of the pricing and illustrate how ridiculously expensive it is!

Not many tourists purchase 2-days ticket as it is costly. We shouldn't but I read somewhere that to see the most of the national park, it is recommended with 2 days. My experience says that 1 day is sufficient! The pricing varies depending on season and timing. During winter from November to March, a 2-day ticket costs EUR15! Our ticket is 4x the price. Ouch! Do you understand now why I said that Croatia's places of attraction milks tourists as much as they can? For March, April and October, the price is EUR39. 

For a 1-day ticket, during summer from June to September, after 4pm, the price is EUR25. The park closes at 6pm. Before 4pm is EUR40. From November to March, the price is EUR10. March, April and October - EUR23. 

Considering how hot Croatia is during summer, it is fine to come here before June, where the weather is manageable, and take the cheaper price ticket. On hindsight, 1-day ticket is good and take the longest route K to see the well-known waterfalls and most of the lakes. Take the earliest ticket in the morning, bring food for lunch, and you can see the most of the national park. You don't have to explore the whole of the park as after a while, all the angles and corners look similar as one is walking around the lake. 

We started our day with breakfast. We paid for the breakfast buffet as we wanted to get to the national park in good time. We had a quick breakfast. Totally not worth the EUR10 we paid for. 

We bought similar kind of breakfast (except for the egg) for the next 3 days from Tommy store and it costs us EUR4,63 per person per day. Yeah, just 46% of the price of the breakfast buffet. 

We left at 8.25am and arrived at Plitvice Lakes National Park 5 minutes later. We chose Entrance 2 as it is the nearest to our accommodation. The parking space is a space under trees. There are no allocated spots. One can park anywhere as long as there is space and it does not block the driving lane. For EUR60, I expected a proper parking space...

Croatia: Part 8 - Day 7: Drive from Makarska to Plitvice

 Here is a summary of what is spent on Day 7

7/8 Day 7: Drive from Makarska to Plitvice. Started 10am and arrived at 5pm.

Cost

(1) Toll EUR2,40

Accommodation

(1) Apartment in Plitvice Lake National Park, 5 nights (from Airbnb) - Shared room EUR600 for 3 persons, EUR200 per person. On hindsight, we should have a stop along the way to stay for 2 nights as 5 nights in Plitvice were too long. There were limited activities to do after the first two days. 

Food
(1) Breakfast at Smile Coffee Bar EUR10,60 - Croissant avocado EUR6,90, Cappucino EUR3,70

(2) Fruit from market - Peach (1 each) and nectarine (1 each) EUR5 per kg - EUR8

(3) Lunch at Restaurant Ero EUR9 - Cevapcici with bread EUR6, Hidra orange 500ml EUR3

(4) Honey from the roadside - 2 small 450g jars for EUR16

(5) Coffee at Antonio Bistro, Plitvice - EUR3

(6) Snacks at Robni Center grocery store EUR5,69 - Shared 2 packets of nuts EUR12,32, 2 packets of chocolate bread EUR3,90, banana 522g EUR0,86

(7) Dinner at Antonio Bistro, Plitvice EUR25,50 - Pljeskavica (hamburger steak) stuffed with cheese EUR18, lemon Schweppes 250ml EUR3,50, shared tips EUR12

The Story

07082025: Today, we leave the coast and enter the inner of Croatia. Sad to leave the blue and warm Adriatic sea. First agenda of the day is to a morning dip before breakfast. At 8am, there were a number of tourists lazing on the beach chairs! So early but I suppose there are more tourists than beach chairs so it is important to book the beach chairs. Book chairs, I suspect, are for the hotel guests. 

The water is warm and it was so lovely with a morning dip. I did not rinse myself after the dip and let my body be preserved in salt the whole day. Well, salt water kills bacteria so I hope to think I am clean. Haha! 

There are beach train services offered in Makarska for EUR10 for one way and EUR15 for a return. Seems like fun for kids. It is not a long distance. 

 

We walked along the harbour and saw advertisements from boat operators that offer EUR50 for a day's activity that includes lunch. We missed these offers as we did not walk along the harbour upon our arrival. 

We walked to Makarska's Old Town and found a recommended cafe. Quite expensive cappucino compared to the one we had yesterday evening after our return from Sumartin island.