30/7 Day 2: Walk around Kosice town based on recommended places in Free Walking Tour website. Tried local food, halušky at oldest restaurant in Slovakia.
Costs
(1) Ticket to go up the 50meter tower at Saint Elisabeth's Cathedral EUR3
Food
(1) Breakfast at Gesto cafe - Salmon omelette EUR6,90, cappucino EUR2,50
(2) Cafe Slavia - 500ml Radler EUR3,30
(3) Lunch at Pivovar Hostinec - alcohol free beer EUR4, grundle fish with mayonnaise EUR5,90, halušky (gnocchi with sheep cheese, bacon, sour cream and Viennese onions) EUR9,50
(4) Gelato at Fresa Natural Gelato - one scoop pistachio EUR2
(5) Drink at Kembridz outdoor bar - 500ml radler EUR2,20
(6) Kebab from a kiosk - kebab box (meat with salad, and no rice or bread) EUR6,40
The Story
30072026: The morning started great with a cup of espresso. Our Airbnb has an espresso machine and the host provided coffee beans too so we could have a cup each morning we were there.
After coffee, we went out to look for a cafe that has breakfast. It is about 25 minutes walk to the cafe that we found on Google Map. This is the building that we stayed. There is a lift in the building.
On the way, we passed by a sort of medical building. It does not look like a hospital. It reminded me of a clinic. I found it weird that there are many steps into the entrance of the building when it is a medical building. Because I think if one is injured or have weak legs. I guess there must be a back door behind the building.
Gesto cafe! I like that the cafe has a place for children to play. In fact, most cafes and small eateries in Slovakia have allocated spaces for children to play. Very thoughtful to keep the children occupied and promotes family hangouts!
I am not sure if you can see the details in the menu. I ordered the salmon omelette with salad and bread.
Cappucino for me. I saw that the cappucino used 8g coffee beans. Not the same weight as described by the waiter in Jamie Oliver restaurant in Vienna Airport. In fact, most cafes in Slovakia use 8g coffee. Also, all food and any ingredients that have a weight are disclosed on the menu or displays. It is good because I get to determine if I can finish the food.
Salmon hidden inside the omelette. A filling meal. I like.
After breakfast, we walked into town. It was hot by then and it was only 10am. It could be 32 degrees. I wanted to book a Free Walking Tour but the guide did not have any available slots and I think that the guide could be on holiday for that period. So, I took the places that are on the website and did my own walking tour. I searched for the information of all the places and explained to my travel companions. No tips, though. Sad.
A brief history of Slovakia.
Slovakia was under the reign of Hungary for 1000 years until World War I. Hungary fought on the losing side in World War I. The Austro-Hungarian Empire fell apart. Slovaks used this chance to break away. On October 30, 1918, they signed the Martin Declaration which united the Slovaks with the Czechs to create a new country called Czechoslovakia. It became a strong democracy but was occupied by Nazi Germany in 1939. After World War II, it fell under Soviet communist rule. The country peacefully split into the Czech Republic and Slovakia in 1993.
The first stop as we entered into Kosice town is Immaculata (Plague Pillar). It commemorates the gratitude to Mary for an end to the plague epidemic from 1709 and 1710. On the left side of the pillar (in the photo) is the Beggar House. There is a statue of a beggar on top of one of the houses. The statue of a beggar bows to the city is a figure believed to be a merchant or tradesman with a satchel, who, according to the tale, used his alms to build this grand house on Hlavná Street. Hlavná = main.
Then, we passed by the Singing Fountain. Build in 1986, the magic of the fountain lies in the water currents and lighting, which synchronously responds to its own music, carillon. The entire carillon consists of 22 bells, which symbolize the 22 city districts of Košice. It was nice to hear the music and see the ups and downs of the water together with the played music.
Next, Saint Elisabeth Cathedral, the biggest church in Slovakia. The church was originally consecrated to Saint Michael (the archangel) but rededicated to Saint Elisabeth. We had a long discussion, my travel companions and I, on archangels and saints. Michael is an angel and saints are only used for humans. But Michael is also known as Saint Michael because saint is also an adjective to mean a holy one who is in heaven with God. Saint Elisabeth was a Hungarian princess that dedicated herself to charity and built hospitals. We were confused on how a person can override an archangel status and have the church renamed.
Here is the reason why the cathedral is famous: St. Elisabeth's Cathedral gained early prominence as an important pilgrimage destination following a mid-14th-century Eucharistic miracle. According to accounts, spilled sacramental wine formed the face of Christ, an event later recognized by Pope Boniface IX in 1402.
We went up the North Tower. The stairs are very narrow. There are 160 steps. Cash only to pay the ticket.
There is a net at the top of the tower and small holes were cut out in the net. I guess, to take photos?
We could see the park with the singing fountain. The building in the middle with the front facing me is the State Theatre.
This is Urban Tower, a campanile which is a freestanding structure separate from the main church or building. This is a bell tower. So, the bell is not built into the cathedral because (according to the Internet answer generated by AI) the heavy bell generated powerful mechanical vibrations that could crack or weaken the masonry vaults of the main cathedral if housed directly above the nave or attached structure. It is my first time seeing an independent bell tower in Europe. So, further research describes that this sort of structure is common in European medieval designs. I guess I never noticed it or my walking tours did not include this.
This is the reconstructed bell, by the way, from Urban Tower. Picture taken before I went up the tower. In 1966 the tower was damaged by fire and the St. Urban Bell was destroyed as well. The reconstructed tower was reopened in 1971. The renovated bell was located in the front of the tower and a copy of the bell (made by employees of VSŽ Steel Works Košice in 1996) was installed in the campanile.
Time to get down. It is narrow and the stairs can only fit one person at a time. Not many people do this activity so it was not a problem to use the staircase.
Also, there are 3 floors where one could enter 2 of them. One of the floors is not allowed that has the bells. The other floor has an exhibition of deceased religious persons (former priests) that did good deeds. So, we could enter them and take a break from the stair-climbing.
Back down, we decided to take a break and get a drink at Cafe Slavia which was recommended and I did not know that it belongs to a hotel. So, my radler was not the cheapest but also not the most expensive.
We wanted to have lunch at the oldest restaurant in Slovakia which has a recommended brewery that my travel companions were interested. The place opens at 2pm so we continued our walk as it was only 1pm. Very hot right now!
Me with Saint Michael chapel and Saint Elisabeth Cathedral in the background. Saint Michael chapel used to be a cemetery chapel - lower part of the chapel was initially an ossarium, while the upper one served for praying the Office of the Dead. An ossarium is a container, room, building, or site used as a final resting place for human skeletal remains.
Next place - Rakoczi memorial house. The Rákóczi Memorial House (also known as Rodosto) is a replica of the house where the legendary Hungarian prince Francis II Rákóczi spent his years in exile. Prince Francis II Rákóczi is the leader of a large-scale anti-Habsburg uprising in the early 18th century, he became a symbol of the struggle for independence. Following the defeat in 1711, the prince was forced to leave his homeland and spend the rest of his days in the Turkish town of Rodosto, where he lived until his death in 1735. Construction of an exact replica of the prince's Turkish dwelling on the site of the Executioner's Bastion began in 1942. The museum's doors were opened to the public in 1991. The city's connection with the great commander was further strengthened in 1906 when the remains of Rákóczi and his loyal comrades were brought from Turkey and solemnly reburied in the crypt of St. Elizabeth's Cathedral.
We did not go inside the house as it is required to pay a fee as it is maintained by the East Slovak Museum. I think EUR8 for an adult? We walked around the garden.
Then, we stumbled upon Craft Street. It was not in my list but I read about it. It is around the corner from the Memorial House. Very near! Here is the description:
The Alley of Crafts is characterized by period paving and architecture. While walking down the alley, you can stop at the bakery, where it rises bread, at the herbalist who will help you with the selection of medicinal herbs or teas. There is also a blacksmith's, potter's and carving workshop or bag making. Alley of Crafts also offers traditional pubs or restaurants. For gourmets, there is also a wine shop where you can taste honest Slovak wines.
We did not enter into any of the craftshops. I could see some of the medieval external designs on the buildings.
I think Patika is the pharmacy because I saw a skeleton.
Finally, lunch time! Here we are at Brewery Hostinec. We thought there will be a fan or an air-conditioning inside but none. So, it was very hot while we ate our meals. And I had the sheep cheese too. I could feel the heat growing internally.
My alcohol-free drink is bitter despite being alcohol-free. Feels like I am having beer and I don't like beer because it is bitter. Lots of hops inside.
We shared grundle fish that came with mayonnaise. It reminded me of fried anchovies. But anchovies are saltwater fish.
Grundle is a traditional culinary dish made from small, whole freshwater fish—most notably the stone loach or gudgeon—that are breaded or dusted in flour and deep-fried until crispy.
My main meal - traditional local food halušky (gnocchi with sheep cheese, bacon, sour cream and Viennese onions). I was satisfied eating this once. It was very filling and warm to the body. Suitable as a winter food. For me, it tasted bland and the occasional saltiness came when I had the bacon. I did not know cripsy brown onion rings or roasted onions are known as Viennese onions. We have roasted onions in most dishes in Malaysia. Sounds very fancy to be called as Viennese onions.
After lunch, we looked for ice-cream to cool our bodies down. Lots of ice-cream stalls that sell gelato! Gelato is made from milk and sugar, whipped slowly so very litte air is inside making the ice-cream compact. Whereas ice-cream has milk, cream and egg yolk. So, I guess gelato is healthier with lesser fat. Haha! Also, gelato is stored at -12 degrees while ice-cream at -18 degrees. Gelato melts faster and ice-cream stays harder longer. Now, I know the difference.
Found Fresa Natural Gelato that has good reviews. I like the pistachio flavour. This place has one of the cheapest price - 1 scoop for EUR2. In Bratislava, it costs EUR3 per scoop. Wow, SEK11 difference - that is a price of 1liter of milk.
We went back to the apartment to get some air-cond and rest. Very tired from the heat. We came out again at 7pm and went to a nearby outdoor bar recommended by our host. Had my radler. There were many people enjoying their drinks here. Even cyclists stopped to have a drink here. One of the places with low-priced radler. It could be the lowest at EUR2,20.
Walked to a nearby kebab kiosk to have kebab for dinner. I did not want bread or rice so I just had kebab with salad (green leavess, onion and tomato). The seller is a fun person. He saw me taking his photo and said to retake because I took a photo of the back of his head. We had a fun conversation when I chose my kebab. He was not short of customers that evening. I think we chose a good place.
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